It's hot and I wish I had ossicones (or at least a pool)

For my first post back at Walk With Nature, I was going to talk about the importance of pollinators. I've really grown to love our backyard friends, especially the little understood native bee species that help our gardens and fields look amazing and grow amazing food.

However, I became sidetracked last night about 5 sentences in and then today I was flat out too hot to do anything worthwhile on the internet. For someone who loves the outdoors and nature as much as I do, I was ready to curl into a ball in the freezer and curse the sun for the blazing hot madness that is the inside of my apartment. I believe the heat index hit around 105 today.

I know what you're saying. "But Erin! You went to college in central Florida! You've spent many summers in the Midwest! At least its not a drought like it was last year!". You, my protesting friend, are absolutely correct. That doesn't change the fact that when it gets really hot, it gets miserable.

Do you know what kangaroos do to cope with the extreme heat of the Australian Outback? Other than being primarily active at night, they spit on their forearms and rub that spit on their faces, then face the wind and as the spit evaporates, it cools them (much like sweat does, only without the gross part where it secretes from all over your body). They're already built for that heat, though - it can get to be 120 degrees in the Outback. At my job, we simulate the 'roo experience by having kids put "kangaroo spit" on their hands and hold them up to the breeze. Think it might smell like hand sanitizer? Well, now you know where hand sanitizer comes from.

We are not kangaroos. Nor are we camels. Camels have specialized blood cells that are more oval as opposed to our own circular ones. That means they can have adequate blood flow even when substantially dehydrated because their red blood cells are streamlined even when the vessel is constricted. We totally can't do that. I feel like I would do a lot better in the heat if I knew I had some leeway before, you know, death.

Sadly, we don't have ossicones like giraffes, either. You know, those little horn thingies on their heads that may help with thermoregulation (because they actually have blood flow through them). Too hot? Just pump that nonsense right out of your permanent doodle-boppers.

Ultimately, it's those privileged few who have the luxury of accessing a swimming pool that really stay cool during the blistering heat. You don't even have to swim; just stand there and enjoy the shade. One thing does bother me, though; do tigers wrinkle if left in the water too long? With a heat index of 105 degrees, it doesn't really matter. I don't think I'd EVER leave. Unless, of course, I was sharing my pool with a tiger. Then I'd feel as though I've overstayed my welcome. Better yet for our tigre amigo? He doesn't even have to get out to get himself a nice cold tasty drink.

No, sadly, I do not have any of these things at my disposal. Sweating is just the worst because it smells awful on top of being uncomfortable - really, ossicones were the way to go, I think. Which is why I'm sitting in a dark room, drinking frozen cucumber water (since we don't have an ice maker and I have used up the completely frozen ice in the ice tray) and lamenting what feels like an inevitable fiery-yet-humid death.

I know I'm being a bit melodramatic; hey, at least I'm not out on the trail, right?

I have absolutely no experience with heat when it comes to camping; somehow, all of my misadventures in the wilderness involving temperature are with cold weather (refer back to Grand Canyon camping 2012). I'll have to do some research into how to stay cool during a particularly warm night on the trail.

Andrew and I are going camping in Southern Missouri next month, and then a week after that some of my coworkers and I will be camping. It'll be a good way to find out how, exactly, one doesn't sweat to death over night. Since hiking the Appalachian Trail is still on our to-do list, I think this is the kind of knowledge that REALLY matters. Stay tuned for part 2 (coming after said camping adventures) where I discuss what I've learned.

Here'a picture of a totes relaxed kangaroo, just rubbing in the fact that he can tolerate the weather better than myself (who, from his point of view, probably looks like some poor human who has succumbed to some sort of sweaty zombie-ism). Stay cool, everyone!

The Journey: My Hiking Training Plan

As the handful of longtime readers may know, I started a "regular" feature called "The Journey". It was an attempt to share my triumphs and tribulations as I worked to lose weight and become a better hiker. Although I made several posts and lost some weight, I never kept up with it as regularly as I would have liked, particularly after I fell down walking in June of 2012.

After about a year of no real forward momentum in my efforts to lose weight and get in better shape, it was time for a change. Starting on June 17 of this year, I began a hiking training plan. The goal is within one year to be in good enough shape to tackle a multiday backpacking trip. In two years, the goal is to be good enough shape that I could hike a long-distance trail such as the Appalachian Trail.

There are two parts to my weekly plan, the weekday part and the weekend part. Because I have to work during the week, the weekday part is mainly built around hitting calorie goals and walking at least 60 minutes every day (sometimes fewer, if I'm taking a rest day after a weekend). I've been using MyFitnessPal.com to keep track of my calories and my exercise, and it has worked out pretty well. I have a clearer picture of the caloric cost of what I eat, and have made better decisions because of it. I don't always hit the goal, but I usually come pretty close, at least during the week.

On weekends, it becomes a different story, as I use most Saturdays and Sundays to get out on the trails. Starting with 10 miles in July, I am setting a mileage goal every month. Although that is a fairly low goal, it will accelerate sharply as I go through the next few months, until tailing back off during the winter.

In addition, I've also been camping to get used to sleeping in a tent. My goal for this is about one or two nights a month through October (maybe November if I find somewhere to the south a bit to camp). As of right now this is car camping, although I am hoping to spend at least one night this season on the trail. It hasn't gone that well so far, at least as far as getting myself to sleep. However, with enough time I am confident I'll get used to it.

Starting next week, I will make updates about my hiking training plan a regular weekly feature on here. So please come back every week, and feel free to leave comments.

Back on the (Blogging) Trail again

If you look at the previous post before this one, there hasn't been much activity here at Red Faces, White Blazes. A lot of that was because real life had intervened, as I took a new job and moved. Because of this, as well as a rather stubborn winter up here in the north, I didn't get a good start on hiking until this summer. Thus, I really didn't have much to write about, so I didn't write.

I am happy to say that this won't be the case for much longer. Since last month, I've had a chance to hike several places in the upper Midwest (MI, MN, WI, IA, and Northern IL), including Pictured Rocks. I've also started a concerted plan to get myself into hiking shape, so I can actually enjoy hiking long distances. I will be sharing my thoughts on these hikes, as well as keep you updated with my plan's progress.

In addition, you'll be seeing more of Erin around here. Of course, her posts are an even rarer occurrence than mine, but she has a lot of thoughts on nature, ecology, and hiking to share with us, and I can't wait to read what she writes.

Please check back often!

Some thoughts on the New Backcountry Camping Fees in the Smokies

While visiting the ATC website a few days ago, I found out about Great Smoky Mountains National Park's plan to charge a daily fee for backcountry camping. Considering how many times I've visited the park, I'm a bit embarrassed this was the first time I had heard of this situation. It's $4/day/person, will be starting on February 13, and will be used to fund an online reservation system and pay for backcountry improvements.

Naturally, this hasn't been enacted without controversy*. The best argument those who oppose it have is based upon the history of the park. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, unlike most of the other large western parks, came from the federal government purchasing (some would argue seizing) privately owned land in the 1920s and 30s. Although a lot of it was just forest land that was being cleared by lumber companies, many of the landowners were small farming, some of which had been on the land for over a century. Part of the multitude of agreements that created the park was that the NPS could not charge an entrance fee or toll to enter the park. This was primarily because Newfound Gap Road (US 441) was a major thoroughfare across the Appalachians in the days before Interstate 40. It's a unique situation for a park as large as GSMNP, compared to other parks such as Yosemite and Yellowstone, which charge $20 - $25 entrance fees. As such, many people enjoy the fact that they've been able to go hit the backcountry in the Smokies, and enjoy it without the usual fees and such they might encounter at state parks, national forests, or the parks out west.

As for me, although I'd rather not pay anything than something, I'm not against the fees. Provided they are used to improve the reservation process and the backcountry experience, particularly along the A.T., then it is a worthwhile fee. The per night fee is not too high, and it costs $20 for a seven day permit, which is even less. It appears the only change that will affect thru-hikers is that they'll have to pay the $20 fee, and still follow the usual AT in the GSMNP rules. I doubt this is just a first step towards charging general admission fees. For one thing, it would violate Tennessee state law. For another, the outrage would be swift and terrible. Like it or not, the car drivers are much more crucial to the area's economy than thru-hikers or even just your typical backcountry campers. Frontcountry campsites already charge fees, so it doesn't seem out of order to charge for backcountry sites.

It has always been a tenuous battle between accessibility and experience in our parks. Ideally, we'd be able to hike, camp, and see the sites in any of our national parks without paying fees. The scenery would be untrammeled, the wildlife ecologically balanced and free from horrible invasive species, and there wouldn't be any trash covered campsites or trampled and degraded trails. Unfortunately, we'll never reach that ideal. However, we can always aspire to that, and to do that we have to be willing to pay the price. Perhaps this fee is unjustified, a cash grab by an overreaching government. Perhaps it's an absolutely necessary fee to give much needed help to a beloved, yet beleaguered, national treasure. I've shared my thoughts, how about yours?

*Perhaps this site is making a good argument against the fee. I can't really tell, because it is one of the worst designs out there. Normally, if you want someone to support your cause, the best way to do is NOT put white text, particularly an awful script font, on a colored background.

Walking along the AT: Harper's Ferry

Date: June 21, 2012
Direction: NOBO from John Brown's firehouse across Potomac, then SOBO
Distance: ~1 mile along trail
Start (NOBO): John Brown's firehouse, WV
Turnaround Point: North side of bridge over Potomac River, MD
End (SOBO): Stairway spur off of Appalachian Trail

If they even think of Harper's Ferry, most people know it as the former site of a United States Armory where John Brown attempted to start a slave revolt in 1859. A few more, particularly Civil War history buffs, will recognize it as a key strategic point in the early part of the war, and the site where 10,000 Union troops surrendered to the Confederates after being surrounded in September 1862. A few more people will vaguely remember it as one of the first (or last) Amtrak stops on the Capitol Limited from D.C. to Chicago.

However, for hikers and fans of the Appalachian Trail, Harper's Ferry is known for something else. It is the home of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the non-profit group who heads up the maintenance and conservation of the Appalachian Trail. Although not directly on the trail, it is fairly close to it, and is considered the traditional and ceremonial halfway point of the trail, even if the actual halfway point is in Southern Pennsylvania. For many hikers, the HQ and visitor's center would merely be a quick stop for water, email, and a picture on their journey northward (or southward). For Erin and I, it would be our turnaround point on a short hike. It was only about a mile from the National Historic Site in the older part of the town, how hard could it be?

Harper's Ferry is a very scenic place. Located at the juncture of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, close to where the Potomac bisects the Blue Ridge, it is surrounded by high ridges and hills. The lower part of town is also the older part of town, where most of the historical buildings and the ruins of the armory can be found. The upper part, where most of the people live and where the ATC headquarters is, is high up on a ridge behind the old part of town. In other words, you have to go uphill or downhill to get anywhere. For an out of shape hiker like myself, this meant any distance would be at least a bit uncomfortable.

In addition to the elevation changes, there also was the temperature to consider. As about everybody in the United States can attest, the summer of 2012 was really warm. It had been warm during the length of our trip, which had taken us from Grayson Highlands up the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia and through Shenandoah National Park. Although it was pleasant up at Grayson Highlands, the rest of the trip had been quite warm. As Harper's Ferry was rather low, we didn't even have the slight elevation advantage we'd get up on the Blue Ridge. The temperature was well over 90, and probably close to 100. I don't recall it being overly humid, but the temperature was so high even a bit of humidity would push the heat index up into triple digits. It wasn't exactly ideal hiking conditions.

Nevertheless, we decided to push on, riding the NPS shuttle bus from the National Historic Park's visitors center to the historic part of town. We took the obligatory pictures of the old buildings and the firehouse where Brown and his doomed compatriots made their stand. We then walked over to the riverside, taking some pictures of the Potomac cutting its way through the Appalachians and trying to stay in the shade of the few trees that were around. Finally, we couldn't put it off anymore, and decided to begin our trek along the A.T.

We walked the short distance up to the railroad bridge, which also included a walkway for the Appalachian Trail to cross. By the banks of the river a hiker was taking a nap, letting his clothes dry as he likely waited for the cooler and shadier hours of the day to continue on his way. The bridge wasn't terribly long, but the heat made it feel longer. We made it to the Maryland side of the trail, making this the sixth state I had touched along the AT. We stood there for a while, looking back at Harper's Ferry and the high ridges surrounding it on the other side. The trail went down stairs to join the footpath along the old Chesapeake and Ohio canal, continuing its long path north to Katahdin. We, however, turned around, our goal much closer.

Crossing back underneath a railroad viaduct, we then had to determine where exactly the trail went. We looked around, and eventually found the white blazes that showed us the way to go, in this case through a small area between buildings, before reaching a set of stone steps. These steps were historic, having been there since the early days of the town. In other words, they were uneven, they were large, and they were steep. And for most of their run, they were in the sun.

It was here than Erin and I disagreed on our course of action. Erin wanted to walk up through town, returning along the Appalachian Trail. I believe she thought it would be less arduous, less steep, and possibly have more shade. I, on the other hand, wanted to continue along the trail, perhaps fearing that if we walked a different way up to the ATC vistors center, I would talk myself of walking back on the AT. Particularly if the visitors center was really close to the old part of town. Keep in mind that we hadn't quite pinpointed where the visitor's center was, so for all we knew it was just in the back of all the historical buildings, and not up a great big hill.

For the time being, I won the argument, and we continued on up the trail. We passed the old church on the hillside, and ruins of other old buildings. We eventually made it up the old stairs, found a water fountain to refill my water, and mercifully had some shade to walk through. We stopped briefly at Jefferson Rock, admired the view, and continued walking up, this time on a dirt track much more typical of the AT. Knowing how the At enters and exits Harper's Ferry, I knew that if it started heading back down to the highway we'd have gone too far, so I was wary of any downhills along the path. Fortunately (or unfortunately, for my lungs), we didn't run into too many.

Eventually we came to a set of stairs that branched off the trail, going out of the woods and back into town. We weren't sure if this was where we needed to get off to get to the ATC Visitors Center, but we didn't want to miss the turn off and get stuck having to backtrack. Erin hurried ahead up the steps, scouting out the situation. She found some buildings, some NPS vehicles, and a cemetery, so I followed her up.

It turns out we were still a ways from the ATC Visitors Center. However, we had found a back way to get to the NPS Historic Park Headquarters. After a quick break for water and shade, we walked on through town until we hit Washington Street, the main street in town and the street where the ATC Visitors Center could be found. We had done most of the uphill climb on the AT, so after a couple blocks of walking we were there.

We spent just a short time there, enough to look around, renew my membership with the ATC, and get some water. We were only there a short time, although we did see a few thru-hikers. Like them, we were at the halfway point of our trek, although ours was much less significant, although I'm sure I was just as sweaty as any of them. The ATC was selling cold Snickers bars, but I didn't buy one. I regretted that within minutes of leaving, just as I regretted forgetting to take a picture of the place.

Instead of finding the AT again and walking back down, we chose to walk back along Washington Street. Although not as steep as the stairs, it was still plenty steep going down, and I'm glad we chose the trail to come up on. Much of the walk down was in the sun, and I'm pretty certain it would have sucked going up that way. For once, it appeared walking along the AT was both the scenic choice and the sane choice.

Wintertime Hiking Blues

According to weather.com, it's 15 degrees here in Vermilion County, Illinois. Besides the fact it has been dark for six hours, it is far too cold for me to hike right now. I suppose I could go somewhere south and west, where the weather would be warmer. However, that would take money, something which I don't have.

I got new hiking shoes for Christmas, and I'm curious about how well they'll perform. Because it has been somewhat snowy at times since then, and because I just plain hate dealing with ice, I've yet to try them out. Unless the weather turns unseasonably warm, it looks like I'll have to wait until March before I put them to use on a trail.

I think it goes without saying that I won't be stepping off at Springer (or Katahdin) this year. Even if some generous benefactor were to avail themselves of the donation button on the right side of this page and fund a trip, I'm not at all in shape, or have the logistics figured out to a point where I could do this. On the other hand, if someone has $20,000 burning a hole in their pocket, I could probably find it in me to get started by late March or April. Considering my current situation, I can't imagine getting it together for 2014 either. Of course, 2014 is a year away, so a lot can happen.

Regardless of what happens, or where I may end up a year from now, I will be getting out on those trails this year. Although I'm scrapping January, I'm setting a goal of ten miles for February, and fifteen miles for March. I'd like to think these goals are incredibly conservative, but considering how badly I failed my goal in 4Q 2012 (6 miles or so out of 30), I figure I've got to be realistic. I'll be keeping you abreast of my progress, so stay tuned.

Although the weather may have curtailed my hiking, it hasn't been erased from my mind. Just today, I saw the word "swag", and instead of thinking of crap you get at parties or conventions, I thought of low spot on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia called the Swag of the Blue Ridge. From what I can gather, swag is an old-timey term for a gap between two lofty peaks, and for some reason it has stuck with me. Hopefully, I'll be able to check out this particular swag, sooner rather than later. For now, I have to be content re-reading the books I have on the Appalachian Trail and hiking, following the interactive map at appalachiantrail.org, and marking the time until Spring.

Springer Mountain and the BMT, part 2.

The first weekend of December, my sister and I went to Northern Georgia to do some hiking. While I was living in Chattanooga I had purchased a book with 50 trails in the North Georgia mountains, and I wanted to knock a couple of these trails out. We used some free nights I had earned from a hotel loyalty program I was part of, and set our minds to hike one trail on Sunday and one on Monday.

We got into Helen, GA fairly late on Saturday, and ended up getting up much later than I had hoped on Sunday. It wasn't until after noon that we got started out for the day. After a trip to local IGA for some supplies, we decided to walk the Tennessee Rock trail up at Black Mountain State Park (the highest state park in Georgia). Of course it was unseasonably warm, so we thought it would be a great day for a hike up in the mountains.

After a nice drive through mountains and lunch in Clayton, GA, we made the turn off of US 441 towards the state park. Lo and behold the highest state park in Georgia is also a park that closes in the winter. So it is 70 degrees out (OK, probably around 55-60 up in the mountains), the sky is crystal clear, and the freaking State Park is closed. They were so rigid they didn't even have one last weekend before closing. Apparently December 1 MEANS December 1 to Georgia State Parks.

Because of our late start, the early sunset, and the fact that Tennessee Rock was the farthest away of the three options, we had effectively ruined our shot at hiking much of anything on Sunday. Instead we drove even farther, through Franklin and up to Wayah Bald. Wayah Bald is a high point on the AT in North Carolina, and is one of the easiest points on the trail to get to that isn't on a road crossing (or train station). All it takes is driving up a winding road from Franklin, then drive up another winding gravel road, and park at the nice new paved lot. From there it is a short walk along the paved AT to the Wayah Bald tower, which provides a panoramic view of the Blue Ridge of TN, NC, and GA. From atop the tower, we could see Clingman's Dome, the highest point in TN and the AT. It's hard to believe that it is less than thirty miles in a straightline to there. By car it would take about two hours or more to get there, and by foot it would take many days of grueling ups and downs to reach it.

The short walk to and from Wayah Bald was the sum total of our hiking that day. However, we enjoyed a nice drive through the now leafless mountains, and some excellent views atop that peaceful bald. I don't consider it a waste, and considering how much of an ordeal the next day turned out to be, I'm kind of glad I didn't walk several miles on Sunday. But that's another story, one that my sister tells so well.