From the Potomac to Pen-Mar: A Hike across Maryland

Looking down into the valley where Boonsboro, Maryland is, from the George Washington Monument State Park.

It's "common knowledge" for AT hikers that Virginia is flat and Maryland is easy. Having hiked 30 miles or so of the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park in Northern Virginia, that first bit of conventional wisdom can be put to rest. But what about the second one? It can't be that difficult, if some people cross the state's 40.6 miles in one day, right?

Hiking the AT in Shenandoah National Park

A view from a Skyline Drive overlook that intersects the AT

I've never hiked more than a quarter mile of the Appalachian Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, but from the accounts of Clever Girl and others, it's a true wilderness hike. For seventy miles the trail goes up and down some of the highest ridges east of the Rockies. Between Fontana Dam and Davenport Gap the trail only cruises one road, and comes close to another in a couple more spots. Before Clingmans Dome or after Newfound Gap, the closest way to get to the front country are several miles of steep rocky trails. All in all its a challenge akin to the wild parks of the west.

Shenandoah, however, is not quite as wild.

Yeah, you're still very likely to run into bears, snakes, and other denizens of the Blue Ridge. And sure, there are still rocks, mud, and steep uphill climbs. But on the whole, the part I hiked (roughly Rockfish Gap to Big Meadows Amphitheater) was a veritable hiker highway. Throw in the frequent crossings of Skyline Drive and the campstores and waysides overflowing with cheap beer and ice cream, and the park resembles less a wilderness and more a 100 mile long city park.

Provided a hiker is in good shape and isn't suffering from ailments of the feet or knees, casual 15 mile days are reasonable, and 30 mine days are within reach of the speedsters. Were you to average about fifteen miles a day, you'd hit a campstore or wayside about once every other day, save for your first and last. Even slowpokes like me could run into them every third or fourth day.

Whether you are a hiker, rider, or driver, the waysides are worth a stop just for the blackberry milkshakes. Also good is the blackberry cobbler, particularly with the hand dipped blackberry ice cream.

The one downside to Shenandoah is that you are pretty much committed to staying at either the front country campgrounds, or the huts and their associated campsites. While well maintained, these can be inconveniently placed, requiring alternating longer and shorter days. You can camp virtually anywhere in the back country, but I saw only a few places worth camping. Most of the area along the trail is steep and rocky, or covered in second growth thorny hells. For the through hiker, this shouldn't be a problem, as the longest distance between huts is about 13 miles. But for the novice and the easily winded, it can create a logistical quandary.

If you are looking for a great place to introduce yourself to the Appalachian Trail, then Shenandoah is for you. There's enough challenge to let you know what you're in for, while being more forgiving than other places. Also, it's one of the few places along the trail where you can get $1-2 beers and drink them in the open. For the through hikers, usually with an accompanying ice cream bar.

Nighthawk 2: Back on the Trail

The view from Little Calf Mountain, near the southern end of Shenandoah National Park.

More than two months since I left the trail, I am finally back out along the Appalachian Trail, this time about 800 trail miles to the north. Tomorrow I begin the real deal, backpacking from somewhere in Shenandoah to some point north. How far I will go is a question for another day. 

I started off with two days of slackpacking back into the swing of things. The hiking was slow and the temperatures warm, but I knocked out another 12 miles along the trail. I'm staying in a hotel tonight, but tomorrow night I'll be sleeping out on the trail somewhere. Most likely I'll be starting somewhere to the north of Turk Gap, the place I finished my second day of slackpacking. The bear that I had to scare away in the parking lot can rest easy.

When I begin the trek north I'll do so with a trail name. Thanks to my several nights of night hiking I had to do in Georgia, I earned the name "Nighthawk" by Clever Girl (aka my sister Erin) and others. Somehow I missed this the first time around, but fortunately Erin reminded me of it. It's a really cool name, and I can't wait to sign in to the trail shelter logs as Nighthawk.

Please stay tuned to this blog, as there will be plenty of updates as I move towards Harper's Ferry. Also, please forgive the ducking typos, as the posts beyond this one will be made on my phone. 

Three Walls and a Roof: The AT Shelters of Georgia

Springer Mountain Shelter, from a previous visit to the mountain of the same name. This is the only picture of a shelter I have.

Of the eleven National Scenic Trails in the United States, the Appalachian Trail is unique in its system of shelters. In general, these structures are placed between 6-10 miles apart from each other, which makes them accessible by a day's hike for all but slowest hikers. No two shelters are alike, as they have different capacities, were built at different times, and use different designs and materials. Some are well built, protect from the wind, and have easily accessible water. Others are barely better than no shelter, are more shelters for mice than hikers, and seem to be built to funnel the wind into the shelter area.

Saving the Hike by Getting off the Trail

The sign at Dick's Creek Gap. In a couple months I'll have a picture showing me back on the trail.

I won't be through-hiking the Appalachian Trail in 2015.

Those words were hard to type, but they are true. In the calendar year 2015, I won't be walking the entirety of the Appalachian Trail from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine. With that being the strict definition of a through-hiker, I will not qualify.

Ten Lessons Learned in Ten days on the Trail

Me at Neel Gap. 

1. It's as Hard as Advertised
Those who have said the trail is tough are correct. It's often steep, full of ankle turning roots and knee hating rocks. It's possible in a single day that you can worry about hypothermia and heat stroke. You spend all day beating up your body, just to get up the next morning and do it all over again. The uphill climbs seem to go on forever, and the downhill climbs aren't any better, particularly for a hiker with a high center of gravity. It's often not very fun and can really feel like work.

Countdown to Amicalola: Zero Hour

Amicalola Falls, as seen yesterday. Glad I hiked up all 604 steps to see it.

Gonna keep this quick, because I'm on my phone and we're getting ready to head to the approach trail. The countdown is over, and it's time to hike. Am I ready? Perhaps not, but it's here nonetheless, so I'm as ready as I can be. From here on it's no longer anticipation, but the real thing.

Let's do this.

Andrew's Obligatory Gear List

A picture of my pack. The actual pack I'll be hiking with is a bit different from this, as it's a M/L pack (18-21 inches).

I suppose it's a tradition for a through-hiker to share what's going into their pack. Erin has already done it over at Appalachian Trials, and so now it's my turn.

The Pack: 

Kelty Coyote 80 M/L

At 80 Liters of capacity, this is one of the larger packs out there, at least for what is used by Appalachian Trail hikers. This makes sense, because I'm also bigger than the vast majority of the AT hikers. Everything, from my sleeping bag and pad, to my clothes and camp shoes, to the amount of food I need to carry, is bigger. Of course, that also means the weight of what I'll be packing is larger.

As mentioned in the caption of the photo, my actual pack I'll be hiking with is not the one I started with. I moved up to a M/L (18-21 inches) torso length pack from the S/M (15-18 inches). Judging from how the first one fit, I'm probably somewhere on the low end of that 18-21 inches, but this will make sure. I had to transfer the hip belt strap from the original pack to the new one, as the whole reason I bought the original pack was because it had a strap that fit my waist, something that is a rare find for a person of my size.

Tent:

Six Moons Designs Solo Tent
Six Moons Designs Footprint

I've never actually used this tent yet. However, it has been used four different nights by my brother Travis. While lighter than I am, he is a couple inches taller, and he was able to use the tent. This is good, because I need any weight savings I can get. There's no doubt my REI Half-Dome 2+ tent would be more comfortable, and by being a self standing tent more flexible in where I can set it up. However, it's also a lot of weight, whereas this tent doesn't require a rain fly and uses a trekking pole as it's primary support. It's one of my few concessions to "Ultralight Madness".

Sleeping System: 

Montbell 37 degree down sleeping bag
Sleeping Bag Liner
Thermarest Inflatable Sleeping Pad

Look, I'm aware the half-assed descriptions of these items. The simple fact is I'm not the kind of person who gets caught up in worrying about equipment and gear. I don't have strong opinions on who makes the best sleeping bag, what the best material is, or reviewing benchmarks of which species of bird the down came from. Unless we see a repeat of February weather in April, I'm confident this combination will get me through both the coldest and warmest nights on the trail, even if I have to put on some of my outwear to make it through.

Clothing:

Marmot Polartec Vest
Columbia Klamath Range II Half-Zip Long Sleeve Shirt
Long-Sleeve Thermal T-Shirt
Thermal Pants
Big & Tall Khaki Pants
Smartwool Socks (3 pair)
REI Performance Tech Tee
Town T-Shirt
Town Underwear

Clothing is an area that I was worried about finding items that would fit. Fortunately there was enough that I could make do, with only pants being the one elusive thing I've yet to find. It won't take much to get into a range where I'll have better options than my cotton khakis, but they'll have to do for now. Beyond that I think I have a nice range of clothing options depending upon the weather. Of course I don't have shorts, which I may look into some town shorts for sleeping. However, I don't hike in shorts. It's partly because of an experience involving some shin level sharp plants that I had to walk through on one trail a while back, and partly because of how often I've fallen down. I was able to compress all of these clothes save for the Marmot vest, the pants, and a pair of socks into a 10L Sea to Summit Stuff Sack.

Rain/Snow Gear:

Beanie
Gloves
Frogg Toggs Rain Poncho
The North Face Venture Rain Jacket
Gaiters
Katoolah Microspikes

My rain and snow gear is pretty basic, with an option for colder rain, an option for warmer rain, and some protection for my head and hands in case of cold weather (especially when in camp). I'm hoping I won't have much need for the microspikes, but those high ridges in North Carolina and Tennessee might prove to be stubborn in giving up the snow and ice during the first month or so.

Walking System:

Merrell Moab Midtop Hiking Shoes
Leki Trekking Poles
Crocs

I'll be starting with a fresh pair of these shoes, as I've had a lot of use out of the previous pair. The Leki Poles were some of the first hiking equipment I purchased, and they've done me good so far. One of them will be doubly important because it's the main support for my tent. The Crocs are a lightweight shoe that will be good for wearing in camp, and perhaps to use as well when I am fording a creek or river.

Cooking System:

JetBoil Sumo Stove
Propane/Butane Fuel Canister
Spork

I've used this stove several times, including a couple times while hiking, and I have to say that it works pretty well. The cooking pot/cup is quite large, but my meals are quite large.

Hydration System
Two 25oz Nalgene Bottles
Sawyer Gravity Filter clean water bladder.

For daily hiking purposes I'll be using the nalgene bottles. The bladder will be more useful for camp and its various needs.

Water Purification:
Sawyer Gravity Filter
Aquamira

Logistics and Navigation:
Compass
Maps
AWOL's AT Guide
Suunto Core Watch

Communications
Moto X Phone
Radio/Charger/Flashlight Combo device
Portable Charger Stick
Charger Cord

My phone will double at times as a book, as I can use my Kindle app.

Hygiene/First Aid
Biodegradable Soap
Toothbrush/Toothpaste
Tweezers
First Aid Kit (with the usual stuff)
Generic Tylenol PM
Camp Towel
Sunscreen
Insect Repellent

Nothing too exceptional here. The hiker's "Vitamin I" is off the table because of some kidney issues I had back when I got pneumonia. Instead my liver will be taking one for the team with Vitamin "T".

Not included are a razor and shaving cream, which will not be traveling with me, although they will have their own trip in our bounce box, going from post office to post office.

Luxury Items
Trail Journal
Earbuds
GoPro Hero 4 (with protective case)
Plastic Protective Wallet

I won the GoPro at a Christmas Party raffle at work, and you better believe it's getting used. Although I'll be updating this blog frequently (as well as Facebook and Twitter), my Trail Journal will still be kept the old fashioned way by pen and paper. Not sure how often I'll need the ear buds on the trail, but they'll come in handy in town and in the tent/shelter.

Food

Of course, the one thing I haven't discussed is my food. It's the heaviest category in this list. My main food is going to be oatmeal, quinoa, and macaroni, with tuna, peanut butter, nuts, and various sundry snacks filling out the roster.We'll also have jerky and dried fruits courtesy of my evaporator to enjoy at various times during our hike.

Wrap-up
The last weigh-in I did with my pack came in at about ~47 pounds. With some omissions of a couple unnecessary items that were taking up some weight, and a trimming of a few things from my food bag, it's probably closer to between 40 and 45 pounds now. Truth is there isn't much I can do about it. My clothing, even though a lot of it is fairly light, is still heavier than most. I have to take more food to keep a minimal effective calorie intake, and the extra material for the larger pack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad do add some weight. I think the weight is pretty manageable, but as I make my way north, I anticipate figuring out ways to cut down on some of that.

Looking Towards the AT: Virginia Blues, Part 3 (Troutville to Waynesboro)

I believe this may be along the Blue Ridge Parkway close to its northern terminus at the southern entrance of Shenandoah National Park. 

Section: Virginia, from Troutville to Waynesboro 
Region: South
Miles of trail: 132.4
Highlights: The Priest, James River Bridge, Blue Ridge Parkway

For most of the 469 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway, it has little to do with the Appalachian Trail. It starts several miles down US 441 from Newfound Gap in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and heads in a northeasterly pattern from there. As the AT follows the western edge of the Blue Ridge, the BRP follows the eastern edge, going by the Black Mountains (and Mount Mitchell, the highest peak of the Appalachians).

The last 100 miles however, the trail and the parkway become intertwined, with the trail making a crossing of the Parkway many times. These 100 miles are also the part of the BRP in Virginia that looks closer to the high vistas of the first 100 miles of the roadway, rather than the pastoral meadows and woods to the south of Roanoke. It's a beautiful drive, and I imagine it is a pretty nice hike as well.

While the trail begins deep in the heart of Virginia, the northern end of this segment marks the move of the AT into the northern portion of the state. Here, near Waynesboro, is the crossing of I-64 and the beginning of Shenandoah National Park (specifically the southern terminus of Skyline Drive). As such it would be easy to define this part of the trail by its end.

However, there are some sights to see along the trail. Most famous is probably The Priest is a peak along the blue ridge that is famous for a rocky outcropping near the summit, giving a panoramic view of the Tye River valley. The pictures I've seen look rather interesting, but also a possible place for my latent fear of heights to kick in.*

While there are plenty of places along this section that are high up above the valley, the hike is also defined by two major river crossings. The second, across the Tye River, is after an over 3,000 foot descent from The Priest. The first encountered by the NOBO hikers is the James River, making its way out of the mountains down to Richmond, the Hampton Roads, and eventually the Atlantic. Here is a footbridge across the wide river, the longest foot only bridge on the trail.

There aren't any trail towns directly on the trail along this segment once you leave Troutville, at least until you get to the other end. Even here Waynesboro itself is a couple miles off the trail, but should be fairly easy to reach, upon where a multitude of hotels, restaurants, and shops are available for a hiker preparing for the hike through Shenandoah.

* I know, I know. "But Andrew, if you have a fear of heights, why do you hike?" The answer is that I don't have a fear of all heights. For instance, I'm fine flying, or in a tall building (that doesn't have floor to ceiling windows). For the most part I don't feel it while hiking down a hill with drops on the side. However, overlooks, particularly those on rocky outcrops, can make me a bit nervous.

Icefalls and Eagles: Winter Hike at Starved Rock

Icefall in French Canyon. Yes, I had to walk up the iced over stream into the canyon to take this picture.

This past Saturday I made my third hike in the past year at Starved Rock State Park near Utica, IL. Each hike has been in a different season. The first was last Spring, just as the plants were starting to come out of a long winter slumber. The second and longest hike, which took me from the Visitors Center to LaSalle Canyon and back, was in early fall. This most recent hike took place on a thawing winter day, after a long streak of cold and snowy weather.

Essential Hikes of the Midwest: River Ridge Backpack Trail

Sunset along the River Ridge Backpack Trail

Compared to the legendary trails through the mountains, deserts, and forests to our east and west, the Midwest gets a short shrift in the minds of many hikers. Despite a reputation for being flat, the north central region of our country has a wide variety of hiking opportunities that are quite scenic, and can be as challenging as much of what you see on the Appalachian or Pacific Crest trails (even if the challenge isn't quite as long or as quite as life threatening). This feature will be open ended and erratic as given to the standard you've come to expect from our blog. In essence, it's purpose is to share the hikes we've walked that would be tops on our list when someone asks "I'm in the area for a day/weekend/week/month/year. What should I hike?"

Hike: River Ridge Backpack Trail
Location: Forest Glen County Preserve
State: Illinois
Distance: 11 miles
Type: Long Day / Overnight
Elevation: Flat to Small Roller Coaster (50-100 foot ascents/descents are common)
Footing: Good to Poor (depending upon conditions and time of year)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Fees: $10 per group up to ten, than $1/person after that to hike with or without camping. Entrance to the park is free.


Were you to only walk the first mile and the last mile of the River Ridge Backpack Trail, you would wonder what the fuss is about. After all, it's only a mostly flat walk around a large pond and a mostly flat walk on the edge of a prairie. How exactly is this a backpack trail, and why do so many people like to hike it?

AT's AT Hiking Training Plan, Week Twenty-Six

Weeks: September 22 - September 28 (7 Days)
Miles Hiked (Total Period): 5.00
Miles Hiked (September): 17.69
Miked Hiked (September Goal): 30

Miles Hiked (Yearly Total): 154.44

Pounds Gained: 2.2
Percentage to Next Milestone: 36.00%
Pounds Lost (Total):  17.8
Weekly Goal Met: No
Nights Camped (Weeks): 0
Nights Camped (Total): 5
Nights Camped (Backpacking): 0

So this past week broke a string going back a ways of logged periods where I made weight progress. There was one major reason for this, which was that I worked long hours several days, and had to work an extra day on the weekend. The result was less hiking, more stress (and more stress eating), and just a lack of attention to the plan. I knew it was probably going to happen, and am not surprised that it did. In fact, I'm a little surprised it turned out as well as it did. The only thing I can do is do better. Things have returned to a certain level of normalcy at work, so I don't have an excuse this week.

AT's AT Hiking Training Plan, Weeks Seventeen, Eighteen, and Nineteen

Weeks: July 21 - August 10 (21 Days)
Miles Hiked (Total Period): 21.25
Miles Hiked (July): 37.35
Miles Hiked, (July Goal): 40

Miles Hiked (Yearly Total): 134.55

Pounds Lost: 3.2
Percentage to Next Milestone: 86.79%
Pounds Lost (Total):  9.2
Weekly Goal Met: Yes
Nights Camped (Weeks): 0
Nights Camped (Total): 5
Nights Camped (Backpacking): 0

I've got a new scale, so the training plan recaps are worth posting again. As you can see, the past three weeks were mostly a success. No, I didn't get to 40, but for the second consecutive month I set a personal monthly record, this time with over 37 miles in July. Although August has been a little light so far, I did hit 7.4 miles on one hike this past Sunday, which is one step closer to the elusive eight miles in one hike. And on top of all that, I am down 3.2 pounds.

Nature in All its Forms at Allerton Park

On a recent weekend, I hiked at Allerton Park near Monticello, Illinois. Once the property of a wealthy family, Allerton Park was donated to the University of Illinois in 1946. The university runs the mansion as a retreat center, and the gardens, woods, and prairies around it as a park and nature preserve. Despite living about an hour or less from it at various times in my life, this was the first time I actually visited the place. It won't be the last time I visit.

AT's AT Hiking Training Plan, Week Sixteen

Weeks: July 15 - July 20 (6 Days)
Miles Hiked (Week): 8.0
Miles Hiked (July): 25.30
Miles Hiked, (July Goal): 40

Miles Hiked (Yearly Total): 113.30

Pounds Lost: N/A
Percentage to Next Milestone: N/A
Pounds Lost (Total):  6.0
Weekly Goal Met: N/A
Nights Camped (Weeks): 0
Nights Camped (Total): 5
Nights Camped (Backpacking): 0

I won't be including weight loss/gain info during these recaps for at least the next couple of weeks. This isn't to hide bad results (although I suspect there would have been a reverse this week after last week's positive result). Rather, it is a broken scale that is preventing me from giving results. I went to change the battery, and the one of the connectors that attaches to the 9V battery snapped off with the battery. So until I get a new scale, I won't be able to record my weight progress (or lack thereof).

A Long Way Yet to Go

My camera has a tendency to flatten images, yet clearly here you can see the incline to reach this point on the AT.

Wisconsin, Illinois, doesn't matter. These hikes I've done this Spring and Summer have been the minor leagues. Heck, many not even that. Perhaps the Rookie League, or Little League. Tee-ball even, if I'm being honest about Moraine Hills State Park.

This realization hit me about halfway up the Slaughter Creek Trail. The trail, which is almost 3 miles long, goes from the edge of Lake Winfield Scott up to a junction with the Appalachian Trail near its approach to the summit of Blood Mountain. As such, it's pretty much uphill the entire way. Despite taking frequent breaks, my legs were beginning to feel tired from the uphill grind. I moved at a snail's pace, and yet I struggled mightily to get up to those white blazes, where a slackening of the difficulty was promised by the hiking book.

AT's AT Hiking Training Plan: Weeks Twelve, Thirteen, Fourteen, and Fifteen

Weeks: June 17 - July 14 (28 Days)
Miles Hiked (June 17-30): 15.25
Miles Hiked (June): 30.50
Miles Hiked, (June Goal): 40
Miles Hiked (July 1-14): 17.3
Miles Hiked (July): 17.30
Miles Hiked, (July Goal): 40

Miles Hiked (Yearly Total): 105.30

Pounds Lost: 3.4
Percentage to Next Milestone: 56.60%
Pounds Lost (Total):  6.0
Weekly Goal Met: Yes
Nights Camped (Weeks): 3
Nights Camped (Total): 5
Nights Camped (Backpacking): 0

As you can see from the title of this post, I didn't keep up with my weekly recaps. This was due in large part to failing to do official weigh-ins on either Monday or Tuesday, preparing for a vacation in early July, and actually going on that vacation. However, that trip is finished, I'm back on a pretty regular schedule, and it's time to get these back on track. And things almost entirely to that vacation, things are looking pretty good.

Daily Journal: June 28, 2014

Location: Madison, WI
Miles Hiked Today: 8.5
Weather: Variable Cloudiness, Warm

So it is unlikely that I am going to reach my June hiking goal. Sure, it's possible that I could pull off 14.5 miles tomorrow, or even pull off a last second hike on Monday to accomplish it. However, the prospects are pretty slim. Because I had two weeks with poor hiking totals, it forced an unrealistic expectation for this weekend. Thus, my highest total for a day this year (8.5) comes up looking like a failure.

Looking Towards the AT: Tennessee and North Carolina Between the D's

Section: Tennessee and North Carolina Between the Ds*.
Region: South
Miles of trail: 225.6
Highlights: Hot Springs, NC, Max Patch, Roan Mountain and it's related balds, Overmountain Shelter, Lake Watauga, Laurel Falls

AT marker in Hot Springs, NC. The trail along the town's sidewalks are marked with this symbol.

So you're at Davenport Gap on the northeast end of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Now what? Is it time to give up, considering you've just been through one of the most scenic places in the Eastern United States? Of course not!

Daily Journal: June 18, 2014

Location: Schaumburg, IL
Miles Hiked Today: 0
Weather: Occasional Thunderstorms

Of all the things that I may encounter out on the trail, thunderstorms are probably one my least anticipated. Watching and listening to the thunderstorms rumbling through the suburbs has me thinking about this threat that is much more likely than other typical fears, such as bear attacks or life threatening snake encounters. It's not so much the rain (although that can be annoying when warm and deadly when cold), or the chance of encountering high winds, tornadoes, and hail. Those are things to worry about, but not as much as the threat of lightning when hiking through areas high above the other places around.

It's just one of those things all hikers have to deal with. Granted, hiking the Appalachian Trail isn't exactly like hiking in the Rockies or the High Sierra, where dozens or even hundreds of miles may be above treeline. Many of the areas along the AT are shrouded in the relative safety of the forest. Still, there are plenty of meadows, clearings, road crossings, and other exposed places where lightning could be a threat. Guess I'll just have to be observant, and be careful.