Walking along the AT: Harper's Ferry

Date: June 21, 2012
Direction: NOBO from John Brown's firehouse across Potomac, then SOBO
Distance: ~1 mile along trail
Start (NOBO): John Brown's firehouse, WV
Turnaround Point: North side of bridge over Potomac River, MD
End (SOBO): Stairway spur off of Appalachian Trail

If they even think of Harper's Ferry, most people know it as the former site of a United States Armory where John Brown attempted to start a slave revolt in 1859. A few more, particularly Civil War history buffs, will recognize it as a key strategic point in the early part of the war, and the site where 10,000 Union troops surrendered to the Confederates after being surrounded in September 1862. A few more people will vaguely remember it as one of the first (or last) Amtrak stops on the Capitol Limited from D.C. to Chicago.

However, for hikers and fans of the Appalachian Trail, Harper's Ferry is known for something else. It is the home of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the non-profit group who heads up the maintenance and conservation of the Appalachian Trail. Although not directly on the trail, it is fairly close to it, and is considered the traditional and ceremonial halfway point of the trail, even if the actual halfway point is in Southern Pennsylvania. For many hikers, the HQ and visitor's center would merely be a quick stop for water, email, and a picture on their journey northward (or southward). For Erin and I, it would be our turnaround point on a short hike. It was only about a mile from the National Historic Site in the older part of the town, how hard could it be?

Harper's Ferry is a very scenic place. Located at the juncture of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers, close to where the Potomac bisects the Blue Ridge, it is surrounded by high ridges and hills. The lower part of town is also the older part of town, where most of the historical buildings and the ruins of the armory can be found. The upper part, where most of the people live and where the ATC headquarters is, is high up on a ridge behind the old part of town. In other words, you have to go uphill or downhill to get anywhere. For an out of shape hiker like myself, this meant any distance would be at least a bit uncomfortable.

In addition to the elevation changes, there also was the temperature to consider. As about everybody in the United States can attest, the summer of 2012 was really warm. It had been warm during the length of our trip, which had taken us from Grayson Highlands up the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia and through Shenandoah National Park. Although it was pleasant up at Grayson Highlands, the rest of the trip had been quite warm. As Harper's Ferry was rather low, we didn't even have the slight elevation advantage we'd get up on the Blue Ridge. The temperature was well over 90, and probably close to 100. I don't recall it being overly humid, but the temperature was so high even a bit of humidity would push the heat index up into triple digits. It wasn't exactly ideal hiking conditions.

Nevertheless, we decided to push on, riding the NPS shuttle bus from the National Historic Park's visitors center to the historic part of town. We took the obligatory pictures of the old buildings and the firehouse where Brown and his doomed compatriots made their stand. We then walked over to the riverside, taking some pictures of the Potomac cutting its way through the Appalachians and trying to stay in the shade of the few trees that were around. Finally, we couldn't put it off anymore, and decided to begin our trek along the A.T.

We walked the short distance up to the railroad bridge, which also included a walkway for the Appalachian Trail to cross. By the banks of the river a hiker was taking a nap, letting his clothes dry as he likely waited for the cooler and shadier hours of the day to continue on his way. The bridge wasn't terribly long, but the heat made it feel longer. We made it to the Maryland side of the trail, making this the sixth state I had touched along the AT. We stood there for a while, looking back at Harper's Ferry and the high ridges surrounding it on the other side. The trail went down stairs to join the footpath along the old Chesapeake and Ohio canal, continuing its long path north to Katahdin. We, however, turned around, our goal much closer.

Crossing back underneath a railroad viaduct, we then had to determine where exactly the trail went. We looked around, and eventually found the white blazes that showed us the way to go, in this case through a small area between buildings, before reaching a set of stone steps. These steps were historic, having been there since the early days of the town. In other words, they were uneven, they were large, and they were steep. And for most of their run, they were in the sun.

It was here than Erin and I disagreed on our course of action. Erin wanted to walk up through town, returning along the Appalachian Trail. I believe she thought it would be less arduous, less steep, and possibly have more shade. I, on the other hand, wanted to continue along the trail, perhaps fearing that if we walked a different way up to the ATC vistors center, I would talk myself of walking back on the AT. Particularly if the visitors center was really close to the old part of town. Keep in mind that we hadn't quite pinpointed where the visitor's center was, so for all we knew it was just in the back of all the historical buildings, and not up a great big hill.

For the time being, I won the argument, and we continued on up the trail. We passed the old church on the hillside, and ruins of other old buildings. We eventually made it up the old stairs, found a water fountain to refill my water, and mercifully had some shade to walk through. We stopped briefly at Jefferson Rock, admired the view, and continued walking up, this time on a dirt track much more typical of the AT. Knowing how the At enters and exits Harper's Ferry, I knew that if it started heading back down to the highway we'd have gone too far, so I was wary of any downhills along the path. Fortunately (or unfortunately, for my lungs), we didn't run into too many.

Eventually we came to a set of stairs that branched off the trail, going out of the woods and back into town. We weren't sure if this was where we needed to get off to get to the ATC Visitors Center, but we didn't want to miss the turn off and get stuck having to backtrack. Erin hurried ahead up the steps, scouting out the situation. She found some buildings, some NPS vehicles, and a cemetery, so I followed her up.

It turns out we were still a ways from the ATC Visitors Center. However, we had found a back way to get to the NPS Historic Park Headquarters. After a quick break for water and shade, we walked on through town until we hit Washington Street, the main street in town and the street where the ATC Visitors Center could be found. We had done most of the uphill climb on the AT, so after a couple blocks of walking we were there.

We spent just a short time there, enough to look around, renew my membership with the ATC, and get some water. We were only there a short time, although we did see a few thru-hikers. Like them, we were at the halfway point of our trek, although ours was much less significant, although I'm sure I was just as sweaty as any of them. The ATC was selling cold Snickers bars, but I didn't buy one. I regretted that within minutes of leaving, just as I regretted forgetting to take a picture of the place.

Instead of finding the AT again and walking back down, we chose to walk back along Washington Street. Although not as steep as the stairs, it was still plenty steep going down, and I'm glad we chose the trail to come up on. Much of the walk down was in the sun, and I'm pretty certain it would have sucked going up that way. For once, it appeared walking along the AT was both the scenic choice and the sane choice.

Walking Along the AT: Fontana Dam

Date: March 27, 2012
Direction: NOBO, then SOBO
Distance: ~1 mile round trip
Start (NOBO): Fontana Dam Visitors Center
End (NOBO): Entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Fontana Dam on the Little Tennessee River is the highest dam east of the Rocky Mountains. Sitting on the border of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, it is a stunning sight, sitting high above the river valley below it. The lake behind it, Fontana Dam, is a popular lake for fishing and boating. For me, however, it is most important as the entrance of the Appalachian Trail into the Smokies.

Like Hot Springs, the walk at Fontana was both mostly flat and fairly short. For most of the way I walked on the raised sidewalk next to the roadway on top of the dam. On the way across I walked on the lake side and enjoyed the view of the Smokies rising up behind the lake. Before long I had crossed the dam and walked into the grass towards the sign marking the entrance to the National Park. Had I continued, I would have walked along a road for a while, before returning to the trail and a hell of a climb up the ridge line of the Smokies. As tempting as that was, I found it much more prudent to turn around. Making a several thousand foot climb on a whim with few supplies was not a recipe for success.* Instead I walked back across, this time on the side of the dam wall. From here I got a view of the high peaks on the south side of the dam, which were close to where the AT had come from.

A short walk from the Visitors Center at Fontana Dam is a shelter known as the "Fontana Hilton". It is called this because of its proximity to actual bathrooms, showers, and a resort complete with buffet. On a previous visit I walked along the effective path of the AT from a parking lot towards the shelter. I saw it in the distance, but did not approach because I wanted to let the hiker there do what they were doing in peace. The close bathrooms were locked at that time, but it was still winter time, and thus not peak hiker season.

I've actually had the fortune of seeing the AT at its western entrance to GSMNP at Fontana, and its eastern exit at Davenport Gap. As I've seen its crossing of US 441 at Newfound Gap many times, I suppose you can say I've seen both ends and the middle of this memorable section of the AT. However, I still have almost the entire 70 mile stretch yet to actually experience IN the park. This is something I hope to rectify, preferably sooner than later.

Next Week: I walk up to Round Bald, and marvel at the majesty that are the Roan Highlands.

*Besides, I had to make it to Wayah Bald before sundown. By going there, I was able to experience sunset atop one of the great panoramic views along the Appalachian Trail, as well as meet a few honest to god thru-hikers. And all it took was a few miles of bumpy driving, and an embarrassingly short walked up a paved trail (most of which was the AT).

Walking the AT: Hot Springs, NC

Date: October 30, 2011
Direction: SOBO, then NOBO
Distance: 0.7 miles out and back
Start (SOBO): Downtown Hot Springs by the French Broad bridge
End (SOBO): AT Crossing of NC 206

Not every walk I have taken on the AT has been as arduous or as long as the walk up Blood Mountain. In fact, once I had actually figured the distance I walked in Hot Springs, it was shorter than I remembered it. Honestly it wasn't long enough to keep in here, considering I threw out a walk along the AT at Newfound Gap that was almost as long. However, I decided to allow it because a) I can and b) it was my one and only walk through a trail town.

Other than maybe Fontana, the walk through Hot Springs was the flattest of my walks. There was a slight rise from the river to the crosswalk on the edge of town, but nothing too arduous. Of course, not too far past where I started and turned around you would be ascending rather quickly.

The most interesting part of the walk was the fact that the AT symbol was put into the sidewalk at regular intervals. I didn't stop at any of the store or restaurants, as I was in a hurry (I had to return to IL that night). However, it looked like it would be a nice town to visit. Despite walking through a town, I actually did see some wildlife, as a very fat groundhog ran for cover under the porch of one of the houses.

Although the Appalachian Trail spends most of its time in the wilds of the Appalachian Ridge line, it does travel through or near several towns. There are a few "trail towns" to the south, such as Franklin, NC and Hiawassee, GA, but these require either a shuttle or a hitch to reach. Hot Springs is the first town that you reach going NOBO that is actually on the trail. If you were to continue, you'd run into several other towns, such as Damascus, VA, Duncannon, PA, and Hanover, NH. Probably the most well known (to those who aren't Ivy Leaguers, at least) is Harper's Ferry, WV, which is home to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. I'll have more to say about this trail town in #7 of this series.

A town day is one of those tangible goals that send many a thru-hiker barreling down the trail. The thought of good, hot food, clean laundry, and perhaps even a warm bed is a major incentive to them. Walking back I could imagine how it must feel to them to finally have ended that decline into town, and see the beckoning signs of restaurants, stores, and a post office. Perhaps they'd just spend a few hours in town, recharging before making that climb back up, or maybe they'd take the rest of the day off, and tomorrow as well, giving themselves an actually zero day. For some, that zero day might even become a zero week, or even the end of their trip. Perhaps some day I'll be making that decision for a nero, a zero, or just a short stop. My first visit instead ended with me getting in my car and heading off on a long drive back to IL.

Next week: Another flat trip, this time over the highest dam east of the Rockies.

*I've driven through Damascus twice, as well as Erwin, TN once. Erwin technically isn't on the trail, but the extreme southern edge of town does brush up against the trail as it crosses a river.

Walking along the AT #2: Blood Mountain

Date: March 12, 2011
Direction: SOBO Up, NOBO down
Distance: 1.5 miles one way, 3.0 round trip On AT (2.2/4.4 Total)
Start (SOBO): Flat Rock Gap on AT (Byron Herbert Reece Memorial Parking Lot Actual)
End (SOBO): Blood Mountain Summit

Of the seven short hikes I've made along the Appalachian Trail, the hike of Blood Mountain was by far the most difficult. Fortunately, I was in the best shape in a few years when I did this hike. Unfortunately, I still was in pretty sorry shape, as the frequent breaks going up the mountain would show.

The hike up Blood Mountain was part two of a two-day trip in Northern Georgia for my sister and I. The previous day we had hiked the beginning of the AT approach trail from the Amicalola State Park Visitors Center up to the top of the falls, and then back down along the old approach trail. It had been a beautiful hike, punctuated by the 600 stairs we had to walk to the top. After our adventure at Amicalola we had driven around through the North Georgia Mountains. At this point I hadn't quite decided where exactly we would walk on Sunday, but by the time we had checked into our hotel at Blue Ridge, Georgia, Blood Mountain was the leading candidate. It had the virtue of being fairly close to get to from Blue Ridge, relatively easy accessibility from the Byron Herbert Reece Memorial, and a certain amount of status, as Blood Mountain is the highest point along the AT in Georgia.

Therefore the next morning we set out for Blood Mountain. But first we had to make a stop at the Walasi-Yi Center in Neels Gap. For most hikers along the AT this is the first resupply point. It's also the only place where the AT effectively goes through a building, and a place known for its pack shakedowns. As we were not thru-hikers, we were merely visiting as curious wannabes, taking a look at the various equipment and supplies that they had to offer. At this point I had never been in a real outfitter store before, not even an REI or something like that. It was interesting to see all the various stuff they had in there, most of which I had just read about at this point.

After we had spent some time looking around, and Erin seriously investigated some of the sleeping bags they had, we decided that we had stalled long enough and headed back down the mountain a bit to the Byron Herbert Reece Memorial. This is the primary parking lot for day hikers on Blood Mountain, as the Walasi-Yi parking lot is only for customers and for a very short amount of time. There were two ways to get from the memorial lot to the AT: walk up the road to Neels Gap, or take the connector trail from the lot to the AT at Flatrock Gap. As we were going to the summit, it would up all the way.

After a short period on the trail where it was mostly flat, we finally hit some switchbacks, and it was time for the climb. It was here where I felt the more common other side of my hike up Springer Mountain, as I was the slow one of the group. I could tell Erin was getting impatient with my frequent stops, but I had to make them if I were going to get up that hill. Frankly I felt she was pushing me a bit too far, but after a while I set in to a method of counting my steps, and pushing myself to take 10-20 more each time before I took a break.

Finally, after a particularly steep climb we made it to Flatrock gap, the site of our first major break. I hadn't been sure of how far it was to the top of Blood Mountain before we got there, and found out it was 1.5 miles from the gap to the summit. This sounded about right, so we committed to the summit. Had it been more than two miles one way, we likely would have chosen another alternative, perhaps walking the AT back to Neels Gap.

After a much too short flat section, we began climbing again. Unlike most of the connector, however, this was much rockier. If it wasn't going up switchbacks, it was going over stone steps carved out of the side of the mountain. Getting my heavy legs up those steps was a chore, but I made it through them. By this point my energy was somewhat shot. However, I figured it was okay, because we had made the summit. I mean, it was rocky, and there were open vistas, so it had to be near the top, right?

Well, Erin went ahead to scout this out, as I slowly puttered along the trail. Very quickly we discovered that the first clearing was a false summit, as a short and steep section up through more trees showed us. Then we climbed up the face of a boulder, and there was still more summit above. Finally Erin had reached the summit, and came back down to where I was muddling along to lead me there. After several false summits the trail leveled off as well as the ridge, and I knew we were finally there. The USGS marker placed into the rock confirmed this as well.

I sat there and drank water, eating a couple snacks I had brought along. The view was pretty impressive, although it was mainly of more wooden mountains, so there was little in the way of distinctive landmarks. We took a few pictures, conversed briefly with a few other hikers (it was a very busy day with plenty of hikers), and resolved to head down. I would have enjoyed sitting up there a while longer, but other people deserved their chance to sit at the summit, and Erin was getting very impatient.

I think I must have skimped on breakfast, and made the mistake of not getting lunch, because on the way down I felt a bit drained of energy. Also, we both made the mistake of drinking too much water going up. Fortunately it was a cool March day, or that could have been a bigger issue. As it was, it took a fair amount of effort for me to navigate back down the stairs and switchbacks.

As we reached Flatrock Gap, I felt that I had to get some water to keep me going. Fortunately there was a stream just below the gap with flowing water. I filled my bottle up, making sure it was in a rockier area that was flowing briskly and not a more lethargic area of the stream. Still, I knew it was a gamble, as we did not have any method to treat it. It tasted fine, and it certainly rejuvenated me to an extent. It was enough to get back down the trail to the car.

Besides a need to get water, the biggest thing I noticed coming down were the people carrying packs. I had read up enough on thru-hikers to know that these people we saw were not them, or at least not ones likely to succeed. They carried gigantic packs that made them look like they were on some expedition to the arctic. As we talked to a few of them, we discovered they were just college kids out hiking a few days on their break. I suppose when you are only out there for a few days, you can deal with a pack full of unnecessary stuff.

After navigating down another set of switchbacks, I recognized we were back on the relatively flat section that followed the stream I had drank from. My spirits picked up at this point, even if my feet were protesting. We headed back through the path cut through the rhododendron and finally made it back to the sign at the entrance of the Blood Mountain Wilderness. Shortly thereafter we saw the car, and thus the end of the hike.

The hike up to Blood Mountain was then and still is the largest single incline I've ever walked. It was over twice the incline of our hike up to the top of Amicalola Falls. It was exhausting, at times infuriating, and at times a bit discouraging. However, for as much bitching as I may have done, I know I truly enjoyed, much more than the things I usually am doing in front a computer during the week. When we went back up to Walasi-Yi to get celebratory soft drinks, I felt a rush of excitement. I had walked up to freaking Blood Mountain. Although that unfortunately was the peak of my hiking achievements in 2011*, it's not too shabby.

Next Week: Andrew walks the length of the trail through Hot Springs, the first town right on the NOBO trail.

*A couple weeks after the hike I got an infection of some sort that seriously kicked my ass. I'm not sure it had anything to do with the water I took from the trail or not. The usual result from bad water was kind of the opposite of whatever I went through. I tried coming back from it too soon on a short hike from Cravens House on Lookout Mountain and that scared me off any real hikes. In fact, it wasn't until about a year later I made a hike of any real incline or distance.

Walking along the AT #1: Springer Mountain (UPDATED)

Though we haven't yet taken the big walk from Georgia to Maine, we've been fortunate to have had several opportunities to walk portions of the trail. All in all, I've walked six seven segments ranging from about one mile to two and a half miles, and Erin has walked three of them.* The sections we've walked range from effectively flat to an 1800 foot gain in elevation (counting the walk up from the parking lot near Blood Mountain).

Over the next six seven weeks or so, I'll be sharing my memories of each section**. Although there was plenty of sweat and struggling, every one was enjoyable because I was on the AT. Hopefully within the next couple years, we'll be adding much much more about our experiences on the trail, but I certainly anticipate adding more posts to this feature. As I'll be going through this in chronological order, I'll start with my first experience of the trail. Interestingly enough, that would be Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.

Date: February 20, 2011
Direction: SOBO Up, NOBO down
Distance: 0.9 miles one way, 1.8 round trip
Start (SOBO): USFS 42 Parking Lot
End (SOBO): Springer Mountain Summit and the last white blaze.

Of the six walks I've taken on the trail, this one is the most memorable for three reasons. For one, it was the first time I had walked the trail for any appreciable distance. Also, it was Springer Mountain, where the trail begins for those going north, and ends for those going south. This wasn't exactly some indeterminate section in the middle of nowhere. Finally, it was special because I walked it with my parents.

Honestly, I hadn't thought about going up there when they first came to visit that weekend. However, as we were at dinner, we were discussing what to do. I suggested we go visit Amicalola Falls. As we talked about that, I remembered the fact that there is a parking lot for hikers less than a mile from the Springer summit. Although it would be six miles up a rough USFS road, we had my parents SUV, so it wouldn't be too bad. With their assent, we decided to get up the next morning and make the drive from Chattanooga to Springer Mountain.

After a breakfast at Cracker Barrel in Dalton, and the drive through the mountains from Chatsworth to Ellijay, we found ourselves on the road to both of our destinations. For several miles we were on the main Georgia highway, but well before Amicalola we made a left turn, and were on a less traveled, but still paved road. After about thirteen miles or so of this, we made a right turn onto a rocky road. This was the road that would take us to the parking lot and our trail head.

The road was only six miles or so, but it felt like twenty. It was bumpy, it was steep, and it was rarely straight. Finally we arrived at the pass where the parking lot was, and found a spot. As it was a nice day, there were several cars there, but the lot wasn't full. Some people were preparing their own hikes, either up to Springer or along the trail to the north. While we were unloading from the SUV and getting prepped for the hike, some cars approached from the opposite direction on the road from where we came. As that is the way to the lot from Dahlonega (and ultimately Atlanta), I would guess this is the more popular route to the lot.

Finally we had packed a few snacks and our bottles of water, and crossed the road. Almost immediately we were walking uphill. For the first part of the hike, the trail was dirt and not too steep. As we went along, though, it became rockier and a bit steeper. All in all it wasn't too bad, and nowhere as tough as going SOBO up Blood Mountain (my second AT adventure). Due to a stretch where I had stayed disciplined in my exercising, I was in the best shape in years at the time. Oddly enough that put me in a position where I was having to ease off a bit so I wouldn't get too far ahead of my parents. That being said, I did plenty of huffing and puffing going up that trail.

Despite being February, the weather was pleasant if a bit crisp. The leaves had yet to start budding, so we had views out to the terrain around us. Although not exactly stunning, it was still great to see mountains, and interesting to get a better idea of how the land actually was contoured.

Gradually the ridgeline to our left kept getting closer and closer. Finally, we came up to a fork in the trail where a short blue blazed section went off to the shelter, privy, spring and campsites adjacent to the summit. By now I knew we were close to our goal. The trail had leveled off, and we walked through the trees out to a rocky clearing. We had arrived at the top of Springer Mountain.

Naturally we took the obligatory pictures, including the one of the plaque and first blaze seen above. We stood there for a while admiring the view, and chatted with a couple of hikers who had walked the approach trail from Amicalola. There were a few people around who looked like thru hikers, although I never did verify this (I'm not one to just approach and talk to someone I don't know). I'm sure at least a couple were thru hikers, although it was still a few weeks before the peak start season would begin. I can't say about my parents, but it was tough for me to not just start walking north beyond the parking lot, all the way to Maine if I could. I fought that urge as I ate a snack cake and drank some water, looking out over the mountains of northern Georgia.

Finally we had to start back the other way, as we wanted to also visit Amicalola before it got dark. On the way out we took the blue blazed side trail to the shelter, so we could see the first shelter along the actual trail. We also took a look at the bear bag wires and the water source, a spring bubbling pleasantly just a short walk from the shelter.

A quick bathroom break later, we were heading back down the trail. The good thing was that it was all downhill, so there was less huffing and puffing. The bad thing was that it was all downhill, so I was being extra cautious around the rocks and roots. Still, we made it down at a fair clip, passing several people, some with dogs and little kids, heading up the hillside. Before long we were back down to the parking lot, and it took a bit of effort to keep me from being a damn fool and continue on up that trail on the other side of the parking lot. Instead we got back in the SUV, and headed back down that bumpy road.

All in all it was a fun hike, made all the better because I shared it with family. I think my parents enjoyed the trip, and were glad they did it. I know for a fact I did. Here's hoping that either March 2013 or March 2014 I will be heading back up there, this time for a much longer walk.

Next Up: Andrew and Erin hike to the top of Blood Mountain.

***UPDATED*** 07/14/2012: Somehow I forgot completely about my short hike up to Round Bald near Roan Mountain, which was along the AT. I'm not sure why I forgot it, as it was one of my favorite places I've ever walked. I've edited the references from six to seven to account for this.

*This doesn't count the 1/4 mile I walked NOBO at Newfound Gap in the Smokies, a 200 ft section we walked NOBO in Shenandoah this past June, or a small section I walked up to Wayah Bald. I mean, the path was paved, and it was less than 1/4 mile from the parking lot. We also walked the beginning of the approach trail NOBO from the Amicalola Falls State Park Visitors Center to the top of the falls. Yep, all 625 steps in one walk. We've got shirts to prove it and everything!

**If we're really luck, and all cheer in unison, Erin might even emerge and share some of her recollections as well. With me, everyone: YOU CAN DO IT ERIN! YOU CAN DO IT ERIN! YOU CAN DO IT ERIN!