Happy 100th Birthday, NPS!

View from atop Hightop Mountain on the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park.

One hundred years ago today, the National Park Service was founded. Although the first national park, Yellowstone, had been created by Congress in 1872, no formal administration of the park was ever set up. Even as other parks, like Rainier, Yosemite, and Sequoia, were created, there still was no one agency in charge of them. In addition, funds were rarely allocated to the maintenance and staffing of these parks, often relying upon the U.S. Army to fill in the void and protect the natural beauty and critically endangered wildlife found in the parks.

Hiking the AT in Shenandoah National Park

A view from a Skyline Drive overlook that intersects the AT

I've never hiked more than a quarter mile of the Appalachian Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, but from the accounts of Clever Girl and others, it's a true wilderness hike. For seventy miles the trail goes up and down some of the highest ridges east of the Rockies. Between Fontana Dam and Davenport Gap the trail only cruises one road, and comes close to another in a couple more spots. Before Clingmans Dome or after Newfound Gap, the closest way to get to the front country are several miles of steep rocky trails. All in all its a challenge akin to the wild parks of the west.

Shenandoah, however, is not quite as wild.

Yeah, you're still very likely to run into bears, snakes, and other denizens of the Blue Ridge. And sure, there are still rocks, mud, and steep uphill climbs. But on the whole, the part I hiked (roughly Rockfish Gap to Big Meadows Amphitheater) was a veritable hiker highway. Throw in the frequent crossings of Skyline Drive and the campstores and waysides overflowing with cheap beer and ice cream, and the park resembles less a wilderness and more a 100 mile long city park.

Provided a hiker is in good shape and isn't suffering from ailments of the feet or knees, casual 15 mile days are reasonable, and 30 mine days are within reach of the speedsters. Were you to average about fifteen miles a day, you'd hit a campstore or wayside about once every other day, save for your first and last. Even slowpokes like me could run into them every third or fourth day.

Whether you are a hiker, rider, or driver, the waysides are worth a stop just for the blackberry milkshakes. Also good is the blackberry cobbler, particularly with the hand dipped blackberry ice cream.

The one downside to Shenandoah is that you are pretty much committed to staying at either the front country campgrounds, or the huts and their associated campsites. While well maintained, these can be inconveniently placed, requiring alternating longer and shorter days. You can camp virtually anywhere in the back country, but I saw only a few places worth camping. Most of the area along the trail is steep and rocky, or covered in second growth thorny hells. For the through hiker, this shouldn't be a problem, as the longest distance between huts is about 13 miles. But for the novice and the easily winded, it can create a logistical quandary.

If you are looking for a great place to introduce yourself to the Appalachian Trail, then Shenandoah is for you. There's enough challenge to let you know what you're in for, while being more forgiving than other places. Also, it's one of the few places along the trail where you can get $1-2 beers and drink them in the open. For the through hikers, usually with an accompanying ice cream bar.

A Trail Update, and a Last Ditch Appeal

Clouds and the setting sun from Blackrock near Big Meadows Lodge.

OK, here's the long awaited trail update. Sorry it took so long, but events that took place left me in a situation where trying to post a blog would have been a frustrating mess. Anyway, on to the update.

For a couple days, the second edition of my hike didn't go too bad. Although my first day was short, it felt good to get back on the trail. Shenandoah is a much easier hiking experience than Georgia, but it still had its ups and downs. I took a zero day on the second day after I said goodbye to my parents at the Dundo Picnic Area because of a heavy rain storm that would be happening overnight. I'm glad I did, because it rained a lot, and I doubt I would have enjoyed the rainy morning.

Nighthawk 2: Back on the Trail

The view from Little Calf Mountain, near the southern end of Shenandoah National Park.

More than two months since I left the trail, I am finally back out along the Appalachian Trail, this time about 800 trail miles to the north. Tomorrow I begin the real deal, backpacking from somewhere in Shenandoah to some point north. How far I will go is a question for another day. 

I started off with two days of slackpacking back into the swing of things. The hiking was slow and the temperatures warm, but I knocked out another 12 miles along the trail. I'm staying in a hotel tonight, but tomorrow night I'll be sleeping out on the trail somewhere. Most likely I'll be starting somewhere to the north of Turk Gap, the place I finished my second day of slackpacking. The bear that I had to scare away in the parking lot can rest easy.

When I begin the trek north I'll do so with a trail name. Thanks to my several nights of night hiking I had to do in Georgia, I earned the name "Nighthawk" by Clever Girl (aka my sister Erin) and others. Somehow I missed this the first time around, but fortunately Erin reminded me of it. It's a really cool name, and I can't wait to sign in to the trail shelter logs as Nighthawk.

Please stay tuned to this blog, as there will be plenty of updates as I move towards Harper's Ferry. Also, please forgive the ducking typos, as the posts beyond this one will be made on my phone. 

On the Trail: Limberlost

Limberlost Trail
Shenandoah National Park
Virginia

Distance: 1.3 Miles (loop)
Difficulty: Easy

Shenadoah National Park stretches for about 100 miles along the Blue Ridge Mountains of Northern Virginia. It's a park that can be experienced quite well by car, as the scene Skyline drive winds from Front Royal, Virginia to Rockfish Gap, where it becomes the much longer scenic Blue Ridge Parkway. There are many overlooks, as well as plenty of opportunities to see wildlife, such as deer, groundhogs, and even bear.

However, the park is also a great place to take a hike. From short to long and easy to difficult, there are plenty of opportunities for people of all ages, shapes, and walking abilities. If you wish, you can even hike a portion of the Appalachian Trail, which winds along close to the route of Skyline Drive throughout most of the park.

However, if Old Rag or Hawksbill Mountains are just a bit above your skill level, there is the Limberlost trail. Most of it is somewhat handicapped accessible*, and although it isn't level, the inclines and declines are fairly easy. For example, I was able to go up the entirety of the climb without more than a couple stops to take pictures and drink some water.

We only met one person while on the trail, so it was a very peaceful walk. We didn't see any bears, although we were certain there had to be some out there. Perhaps there were a few looking at us from the steep hillsides around, or even up in the trees. As usual on about every trail I've ever walked, there were squirrels to be seen, and birds to be heard.

If you are looking for a challenge, or scenic mountain vistas, you will need to look elsewhere. On the other hand, if all you are looking for is a tranquil, refreshing leg stretcher on your way between I-64 and Front Royal, this is a great option. The day we walked the trail was warm and humid even up in the higher elevations of Shenandoah. However, the Limberlost trail was pleasant, shaded by the tall trees and cooled by a slight breeze. Had it been in the sun, or had we been at a lower elevation, it unlikely would have been as pleasant of a walk.**

The diversity in hiking opportunities at Shenandoah is one of its best features. The next time I am back in the park, I hope to try one of the longer and more challenging walks. However, I may make time to take a stroll along old Limberlost as well, particularly if I am in the park for more than one day. There are several benches along the length of the trail, making it a great place to have a snack, read a book, or just revel in nature. For those with small children, those with limited time in the park, or those who aren't quite ready for rock scrambling, I highly recommend it.

*According to the NPS site for Shenandoah, there are plans to bring it up to the most current ADA standards. The first part we walked in June 2012 would be accessible, but the second half was less likely to be accessible for wheelchairs or people with severe walking limitations.
**See my upcoming recollection of the AT walk through Harpers Ferry for a much warmer and less refreshed experience.